The innovative MOAB M.2 RGB heat spreader which combines two types of aluminum finishes to provide fantastic heat dissipation. Compatible With the Majority of M.2 SSDs over the Specially-Designed Buckle An Incredible Heat Dissipation Through Unprecedented Combination of Two Types of Workmanship Marvelous RGB Lighting Sync with the Latest 5V Addressable RGB Technology The Most Fantastic Piece of Art
Breaking apart custom water cooled build. Custom water-cooled systems have become really popular in recent years because of the optimal cooling solution that it offers, as well as the attraction that it adds to the overall appearance of a build. Maintenance of a water-cooled PC build is quite a challenge. And while dismantling a work of art that you spent blood and sweat on is not exactly enthusing, breaking things down into pieces before ultimately ending up with a beauty is an integral part of PC Modding. Ideally, you’d want to do a clean-up every 6 months to keep the liquid pristine and see to it that the thermal conductor on your CPU Block hasn’t completely dried up. If it’s impractical to do this on the other hand, keeping the system running for up to a year is A-Okay though the coolant might not appear as vibrant as it was on your first fill. In addition, observing the unit’s temperature can also help you decide on when to do maintenance. An increase by 10 degrees Celsius or more is basically your cue. WHEN TO BREAK IT AND MAKE IT? 1.Component Upgrades Switching Processors, Graphics cards and sometimes RAM or SSD if they are part of the loop to improve PC performance or to revamp your entire system 2.When transitioning from one kind of tubing to another Moving from soft to rigid tubing, PETG to copper tubing, and others to match the aesthetics of a themed-build or to just try out something new 3.Adding additional water cooling components Installing an extra radiator, a water distribution plate, pump or tubes to match other upgraded components in the system Check these things out for a positive building experience: Time and Effort Due to the fact that it takes a lot of time to drain, swap out parts and test for leaks, even expert builders find installing new hardware in a water-cooled build a test of patience. You might want to pick a time of the week when you can give it your full attention like days heading towards the weekend. Back to the Drawing Board! Fitting angles and loop courses will most likely change, so you need to plan ahead. It’s not a must but using a software solution like Sketch Up is definitely a big help with getting everything inside your head organized into a visual of a possible outcome. But then again, a pen and paper never goes out of fashion. Gravity Falls Draining a water-cooled build can be tricky if not carefully planned. Strategically placing a drain port on the lowest section of the loop is a must-do. It ensures that we can easily empty the loop as needed in the future. Tissue, please… Prepare a bundle of tissue paper before draining water from the loop; it will come in handy when you need to wipe accidental spills and it can be used to catch coolant drips when testing. You can place them around the fittings, connectors, in areas between parts like the tubing and CPU water block, as well as on top of the Graphics card and so on as you see fit. Playing it safe Start things off by making sure that you’ve removed all the cables that supply power to your machine. This will give you freedom to move things in and out, so you can conveniently drain all the liquid out of the loop. No cables no problem as shown on the picture below. The Flush One thing that is constant when replacing any of the components of your water-cooled build is that you have to drain the coolant out before you can swap around parts. This is critical to avoid getting water where it’s not welcome. Trying Stuff Out Going from soft to rigid tubing requires changing all compression fittings, since the ones you used for the earlier will definitely not work with the latter and vice versa. Also, keep the different sizes of rigid tubes and fittings in mind. Say you’re using a 16mm rigid tube. You should pick out compression fittings matching its size. Same goes if you are to switch from a specific size of rigid tubing to another (e.g. 12mm to 14mm). Fill me up Johnny After successfully refilling the reservoir with enough coolant, do not connect the power supply to the motherboard and graphics card just yet. Plug the pump alone to the 4-pin Molex connector of the power supply, and then use a 24-pin adapter to perform a jump start allowing the pump to distribute the coolant around the water cooling system. The first time you switch the power supply on, you’ll notice that the liquid starts to circulate between the parts of the water cooling system leaving the reservoir empty. Once this happens, turn the power supply off to prevent the pump from getting damaged. You then have to fill the reservoir again to its maximum capacity, then repeat the process of turning it on and off until there’s enough water circulating in between parts. PSU Jumper connected to the 24 pin cable of the power supply. (Make sure that you power supply is not plugged in a wall socket or extension cord) If you don’t have the jumper thingy you can use a piece of wire, hair clip or even a stripped twist tie; insert one end to the slot of the green wire and the other end in the slot where there is a black wire, The black and green wire should be on the same row of pins. It is hard to miss the green wire as there is only one of it. In the case that all wires on you 24 pin are black then you can take a good look at the image below to determine where the green wire is, normally with the clip of the 24 pin faced up start counting at the top row it is the 4th slot from the left then the other end of your clip could go on the 6th. Bleeding Edge Air bubbles will be present in the tubes, water blocks, and reservoir the first time you fill and run the system. Stay calm as they will eventually disappear if you let the pump run for a few hours or sometimes a whole day. This process is often called “bleeding”. All of the above may seem daunting but getting well informed is the key to a positive experience. At the end of the day you just have to pick up all the tools and start doing it “experience is key” to every water cooling endeavor in the world of custom built computers.
Custom PC Water Cooling Redesigned Layers of acrylic, O Rings and a significant amount of screws or sometimes acrylic solvent are some of the materials normally used for making a custom water channel. Also referred to as a manifold or custom PC water distribution plate the list of names goes on and on depending on where you are, but one thing is for sure, it is fascinating! And it has taken the layout of custom PC water cooling into a whole new level. When this unique layout of water-cooling popped up for the first time everyone was amazed on how a build can be so clean and elegant with the presence of a water distribution plate. It eliminates the lengthy and bendy tubing that connects one component to another by bridging the gap closer to where the connections should be. This kind of layout for custom PC water cooling is not an easy task; as a matter of fact, one cannot buy it off the shelf just yet because it is designed to fit a specific build thus turning a modified PC case truly unique. The Challenge So how do you do about this method of water cooling? You can either ask a reputable modder who has the skillset and machinery to make one for you or spend a lot of time doing your own research until you are confident enough to make one yourself which is again complicated because it needs a set of special machinery, tools and materials. Sounds like a lot of work? True that! ZADAK MOAB II Water Cooled PC Since this kind of cooling is quite unique, a lot of PC enthusiasts gain interest in owning a gaming system that does not just stomp over all the games they throw at it but also has superb cooling solution during heavy gaming “Custom Water Cooling” and lastly something that can actually make your friends say WOW the first time they see it. This is why ZADAK went through years of research until finally coming out with the Mother of All Bombs! MOAB II WATER COOLED PC in short. Developing this masterpiece was not easy as it required numerous attempts. The first MOAB PC CPU water block and memory modules did not come with full RGB lighting but ZADAK being the craftsman of perfection was driven to produce a reiteration using high grade aluminum machined with precision and perfection. We also eliminated the saddest story in the PC water cooling community which is “the coolant in my PC leaked due to a deformed PETG or acrylic tube” by making our own custom water distribution plate as well as the CPU water block and GPU water block. In CPU/GPU water blocks as well as the whole water distribution plate in the chassis are industry specific O-rings that strongly seal every connection where water can possibly force its way out. We are talking about a pre-built system with a water distribution plate embedded in the chassis itself, with the dimensions of (L) 31.1cm*(W) 19.3cm*(H) 37.1cm this is a case that will surely fit any set up that you have always wanted. With that size you might think that it is limited to an ITX motherboard but that is not the case. Our engineering team went above and beyond the boundaries of design to fit a full sized ATX motherboard so that we can pump the system up with a powerful CPU, RAM and graphics card. Meaning you don’t have to worry about games that it can run because every set is equipped with top-of-the-line PC enthusiast parts. Everything in the MOAB II is installed to get optimal cooling but we did not leave out the aesthetics department, one of the ongoing trends nowadays is vertically mounting a VGA. That configuration is available with the MOAB II on top of that we have designed a striking VGA water block made specifically for the GeForce GTX 1080ti which can easily be showcased as this is an open air case. We also added some additional features like swipe to power ON button and a very good looking monitor for real-time water temperature built in the case itself. Availability It is of our best interest to let everyone experience this unique system so we are slowly starting to make its availability in the PC market. We first brought first MOAB PC on 11/11 (double eleven) shopping festival in China 2017 and was really hyped by the warm welcome of the PC enthusiast community where 17 awesome MOAB PC units was purchased on the venue. As part of our continuous effort to spread MOAB, this year we made it available in Vietnam through professional modding shops then after September of 2018, MPAB II Water Cooled PC will be on the shelves of PC stores in more countries. So if you are out in the market for a powerful pre-built gaming PC with the best water cooling solution that the industry has to offer the ZADAK MOAB II Water Cooled PC is your best choice. It doesn’t just look cool it is also perfectly cooled!
THE CURRENT RGB TREND RGB lighting on computer hardware has been around for quite some time; from memory modules, motherboards, graphics cards, down to custom water cooling parts. Most recent themed builds incorporate these components, which complete the overall design or feel the builder wants to convey and leave spectators in awe. The freedom of choosing colors from the full RGB Spectrum, as well as gaining control over selecting its effects, is of high demand especially from custom PC builders, modders, and enthusiasts. Being able to control everything using a single suite provides ease of access since it eliminates the need to install individual controllers for each component, and shortens the time needed to learn how to navigate each individual interface. ASUS AURA SYNC Having all those lighting options make it seem like things are in perfect place until you see each component light up in disarray. This paved way to the software and firmware development from one of the best RGB Synchronization software in this ecosystem, the ASUS Aura Sync. This interactive software suite enables every hardware component that is connected to the motherboard to react as fast as 24 times in a second and gives users control over everything including the exact frequency at which one component shall execute the desired effect (i.e. All components will perform the breathing effect at the same time). In addition, you can set one component to light up faster than another or delay it by a few seconds to make it look like they are taking turns when in pulsating mode, or have them demonstrate a domino effect which is also known as the “running lights”. These are just some of the effects that you can play with and there’s definitely more once you get your hands on it. Ultimately, it brought a solution to synchronization and a new challenge to creativity, so we can all enjoy a spectacular light show! ZADAK MOAB AURA2 DDR4 We, at ZADAK, are always on the move to provide high quality and aesthetically detailed products that best suit almost every build/mod that you can think of. As an example, our previous product releases --the ZADAK SHIELD DDR4 and SHIELD SSD -- are favorable among PC modders and builders around the globe; they are also compatible with ASUS Aura Sync. We acknowledge and are pleased with this advancement so we’ve worked on producing a memory module in favor of such development. Taking the challenge led us to our latest product -- the ZADAK MOAB AURA2 DDR4. This is the first memory module in 2018 that got certified by the new ASUS Aura Sync Program. It takes a lot to develop a product that works in this new system because the hardware needs to be quick at responding at the commands of Aura Sync, we stepped our game up and did the following: 1. Double the Clock Speed -- The previous generation MCU is at 1600MHz whereas the next-generation MOAB AURA2 DDR4 is at 3200MHz. With twice the capacity, the computing ability and responsiveness gained greater heights. 2. Massive ROM Upgrade -- The ROM capacity was upgraded to 32KB from 8KB which is 4 times the improvement that results to four times buffer capacity for future functions. 3. Increased Power -- LED power supply was increased to 320mA where the previous one is only at 140mA. This turned out to a more flexible pattern in terms of adjusting brightness. Moving on its overall appearance the ZADAK MOAB AURA2 DDR4 is stealthy metallic grey, this allows the LED to stand out making your desired lighting effect easily noticeable. A diffuser is also present on top of the LED so that the light spreads evenly and does not hurt the eyes. Looking closer on the heat sink reveals the very artistic panel linings which ZADAK is very proud of as it was highly appreciated with our previous products. FINAL THOUGHTS In the end this combination between the ASUS Aura Sync and ZADAK MOAB AURA2 DDR4 is something that every custom PC builder that wishes a spectacular light show is hoping for. A complete software synchronization program that lets you do what your heart desires when it comes to impacting your build with using perfectly executed lighting effects, combined with the first ASUS Aura Sync certified memory module that packs a powerful computing power with an overall outstanding physique that may very well be fitting for any kind of themed build. We have ourselves a powerhouse of form and function and we are very proud and excited to share the user experience to everyone in the PC gaming, building, case modding and enthusiasts communities. Whether you are into explosive RGB patterns or single color lighting effect and synchronization this will be a very interesting venue for everyone to learn and make the most out of your creativity by the use of fully customizable lighting. Please refer to the link below for AURA Sync program. https://www.asus.com/campaign/aura/tw/Partners-and-promotions.html
Introduction So you're interested in watercooling your computer but, you're teetering between an AIO (all in one) solution and a full blown custom loop. Knowing what's involved can help you be fully informed on which will best suit your needs. Custom watercooling has many advantages over the traditional way of using heatsinks and fans. It's more efficient, quieter and it looks undeniably awesome. There's information available on what's included in a custom watercooling loop but, not much in the way of details from the perspective of a Professional Case Modder. Everybody has their own way of doing custom watercooling loops and after doing it for years I've come across a lot of useful information. We'll take you on a journey into the ways we choose which paths to take and how to implement those decisions. There's nothing like having useful tips, tricks and give you inside look into making a custom hardline watercooling loop. Methods to the Madness The order that you connect hardware doesn't matter as far as performance goes. The golden rules I go by is, make sure your reservoir feeds directly your pump, place a drain port at the lowest part of the loop and plan to fill through the top of your reservoir. This leaves us with a lot of space for creativity. Hardline is quickly becoming the standard in custom watercooling loops. Hardline is tubing typically made from PETG or acrylic. While it can be more difficult to implement; the final product is beyond worth it. I've always been a believer that each computer system has its own style. You can change that style drastically depending how you place your watercooling tubing. Take this into consideration while planning your layout. Start out by putting stop fittings on all the ports that won't be used. Stop fittings are caps used to seal off ports that are unused. This will save you from a massive headache if you forget down the road. When determining a watercooling loop or path I use a pen, pencil, paper and sometimes a ruler. Starting out I'll draw the main components like the radiator, reservoir, CPU block etc in pen. This lets me to make changes to the tubing paths that are drawn in pencil without messing up my main components drawn. I prefer to play around with quite a few different arrangements or paths before implementing them. Now that I have a sketched out a guideline of the routes for my tubing I can look inside the case to make sure there's not any foreseeable issues with the path I've picked. Sometimes adjustments will need to be made as you go; it's all a part of the process Making the Connections Figuring out the length of tubing from hardware to hardware can be tricky at first. There are several methods that can be used to make it easier. When I first started I used thin metal wire that was easy to bend but, retained its shape. A pipe cleaner can also be substituted for thin wire. This gets you close to knowing the tubing needed and can also be used to determine the bends. You'll need to consider the tubing will go into each fitting about 10mm, which needs to be taken into account when determining the length. Always making sure to add a little extra both before and after the bend which allows you to fine tune it. Making Those Cuts and Bends Cutting hardline can be done using a rotatable pipe cutter, mini mitre and coping saw. There's a many ways you can cut hardline tubing. The mitre/coping saw allows for a straight, even cut that can be quicker than a rotatable pipe cutter. Bending hardline can be tricky at first. You'll also need a latex insert which goes inside the hardline and keeps the tubing from collapsing when making bends. A heat gun is used to warm up the tubing enough to make it bendable. The tubing is then rotated back and forth; making sure to evenly heat the tubing until it becomes soft. Using a slow, even pressure make your bend to the required angle. You can also buy mandrels which will make it easier to bend to specific angles however, mandrels are not required. Once you have your hardline tubing cut and bent it's time to chamfer the ends. Tools are sold which will allow you to easily chamfer the tubing. It'll make a taper at the end of the tube which gives it a better junction inside the fittings. Now that your loop is in order it's time to double check the fittings to make sure they're all screwed together tightly throughout the loop. This will help limit the chances of leaks in the next step; leak testing. To Leak or Not To Leak It's important to limit the chances of getting a leak but, we also want to prepare just in case it does happen. Disconnect all power cables except for the one that's needed to power the pump. That way if a leak does occur, it can be dried out without damaging components. Typically the power supply is activated through the motherboard. In order to get it powered up while disconnected, you'll need to jump the green wire with a ground wire. If you're uncomfortable jumping it this way, you can always buy a PSU jumper for a few bucks online. Paper towels are your best friend! Fold a few into a bundle and place them under each fitting connection. This serves two purposes; it catches any leaks before getting to your hardware and it makes it easier to spot small leaks. With the power supply off we need to fill up the reservoir. Usually I'll fill it up about ¾ of the way to the top; making sure to add coolant slowly to limit extra air bubbles. Take notice of the fitting junctions as you fill your loop. If you spot a small leak you can tighten the affected fitting or drain what you put in to make adjustments. Now that the reservoir is most the way full, it's time to turn your pump ON. You want to run it long enough for it to empty most of the reservoir without running the pump dry. Running the pump dry can cause it to heat up which could result in damage. Add more coolant and power the pump again to push it through the system. Repeat this step until coolant is coming into the inlet in the reservoir. By now your system will be full and it's a good time to thoroughly check the system to make sure that there is absolutely no leaks. After a good check, you can power up the pump and just let it run by itself. This allows air to work its way out of the system, as well as gives the loop plenty of time to confirm that there's no small leaks present. Most recommended letting the pump run like this for 24 hours before connecting all the PSU wires and firing up your machine for the first time. Closing We've taken you through some useful tips on building your own custom hardline watercooling loop. Soon you'll be the master of your own setup and air cooling will be a thing of the past. Doing your own custom loop can give you an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. At first it can seems scary but, all that fades away quickly. Youtube is your friend and they're a massive resource of “how to” watercooling videos. Make sure to buy extra tubing; especially your first time as mistakes will be made. There's one thing I can guarantee. If you do your own custom watercooling loop; you'll never look back. I've never felt more proud of accomplishing something then when I finished my first custom loop.
Introduction When you start to get an understanding of what Zadak is all about; you'll fully understand how we're constantly reaching towards the extreme in the PC and tech industry. Zadak’s philosophy is to pursue innovation and break through our own limits. We have a deep rooted belief in the modding industry and it can be seen within our products. Zadak houses a team of modders, gamers and people from the tech industry who exude style/creativity. Originality is the name of the game and we set the standard. We wanted to build custom PC that embodies the essence of what we're all about. This PC was named, “MOAB” or The Mother Of All Bombs. This name digs deep into its gaming heritage. Once we dig deeper into this PC you will start to understand why it is at the pinnacle of PC and modding tech. It's the production version of our, “Nuclear Warhead” PC that was shown during Computex 2017. Very few companies in the industry are capable of making a machine like this. MOAB Breaks Boundaries When coming up with the concept the Zadak team of designers and modders wanted to build something that could be owned by enthousiasts everywhere. We not only set out to accomplish this task but, it also had to solve common water-cooling problems. It needed to save space, be durable and most of all; have that original style that Zadak is known for. A common issue; especially for builds that go to the office, friends houses, LAN events and PC shows is the hardline tubing. It can crack from being transported and a custom watercooled system also takes up a lot of space. These are extremely tough challenges to overcome. Especially when using some of the best hardware on the market. We attacked this challenge by designing a distribution plate that would remove the need for the majority of the hardline tubing usually required. It also allowed us to make the entire PC more compact. MOAB features lots of innovations including capacitive switch used to turn it on as well as a built in display to relay real time information like water temperatures and voltage. Zadak didn't stop there; a custom CNC milled CPU waterblock was painstakingly designed and crafted. This allowed us to lower average operating temperatures by up to 50%. A custom RGB controller was also added to MOAB in order to give the end user further customization possibilities. All of this meticulous design is backed up by the some of the best hardware on the market. This helps assure that MOAB will perform at a breakneck speed; even when put against some of the most intensive games in the market. Distribution Plate The genius behind the distribution plate is the inner aluminum structure that not only solves the issues stated earlier but, it also dissipates heat itself. Having the distribution plate mounted to the aluminum structure acts like a giant heatsink. The water-cooling channels in the distribution plate connect each part of the hardware with the water-cooling. The distribution channels serve other purposes as well. They help to keep the distance the coolant has to travel short. Being able to fully cycle the coolant quicker makes it more efficient. This eliminates the need for for the vast majority of tubing. It also keeps the amount of fittings required; very low. A common problem with enthousiasts is bending tubing. It takes a lot of practice to master and can be extremely frustrating. Zadak’s distribution plate solves this common issue that can quickly become a headache for the end user. There's one spot where tubing is needed and that's to the graphics card. We went with the strongest tubing on the market which is metal tubing that is polished on the outside to give it an edgy and elegant look. Even small decisions like metal tubing, make a huge difference in the overall design. Conclusion The MOAB PC not just awesome; it shows the craftsmanship and genius that is housed within Zadak. We made sure to take each part of MOAB to another level. From the real time water temps to the beautifully built aluminum chassis. Everything has a place and purpose in MOAB. This PC embodies all the things that are possible when creativity is used to push the boundaries. Zadak firmly believes that success starts with attention to detail and they couldn't be more right.
Introduction In the past people who watercooled their PCs were those who wanted to get more out of their hardware by overclocking it. Overclocking causes the hardware to operate at a higher speeds which in turn creates more heat. Watercooling is a more efficient way of dealing with that heat. The most common way of cooling a computer is using large heatsinks and fans running at high speeds. The secret behind air cooling is fans; lots of them. All that's quickly changing. Enthusiasts have been watercooling for years and now that's starting to trickle over to the average user. A few of the best advantages of watercooling include efficiency, minimal noise and the fact that watercooling just looks so awesome. Let's dig deeper into the advantages of watercooling and what options are available for you. Keeping it cool The cooler you can run your hardware components; the longer they'll potentially last. When you add in how quiet watercooling is you can start to see the appeal behind it. The standard way of cooling your computer using heatsinks requires fans to run at high speeds due to the low surface area. Watercooling employs radiators which maximize the available surface area. Allowing you to run your fans at much lower speeds which in turn keeps the system very quiet. This becomes especially important for industries where background noise can be a major enemy. Personally a quiet PC is very appealing. It's hard to deny how good a custom watercooled PC looks. Being able to turn each hardware component into a functional work of art is very exciting. Your PC becomes an extension of your personality. Hardline which is usually made from PETG or acrylic is quickly becoming the standard. In the past people used soft, flexible tubing which is easier to install but tends to not look as good as hardline tubing does. There are advantages with soft tubing. It's much easier to route and has less chance of faulty installation for new users. Another big plus of soft tubing is the cost; it requires less adaptors and fittings. To watercool or not to watercool? Fortunately watercooling manufacturers have started to realize that consumers face these struggles quite often. New solutions coming to market allow you to have the best of both worlds by offering expandable kits that help take the worry out of watercooling. These kits take the best features from having an AIO (all in one) cooler and match them up with more of a custom loop design using modularity. AIOs will help keep your PC quieter and are sealed from the factory. They're also referred to as a closed loop system. While an AIO isn't as effective as a custom watercooling loop; it can serve as as a wonderful first step towards fully watercooling your system. It can be overwhelming trying to figure out what parts are needed to build a complete system. Companies battled this issue by offering up kits that include everything that's needed as well as pre-built systems. Pre-built PCs with watercooling is a great way to get into it. They've already determined the best setup and put it all together. These options take a lot of the concern out of watercooling . Conclusion So, which direction should you go? Air cooling or water cooling? The answer to this question greatly depends on you and your uses. As with most things in life, one answer doesn't fulfill each situation. If you're still on the fence between air and a watercooled PC; try getting a watercooling kit, AIO or pre-built watercooled PC. It can be daunting taking that first step but, it quickly becomes easier. After trying watercooling out, it's hard to remember why you ever air cooled your PC to start with. **To get an inside look at an awesome pre-built, watercooled PC system; check out Zadak’s MOAB. http://www.zadak511.com/product_info.html?pro_sn=6