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My Project Dopamine. In it is Zadak MOAB ram and Zadak Shield ssd's. I7 7700k MSI Gaming 7 Z270 GTX 980 Swiftech Maelstrom res/pump Thermaltake 850w rgb psu
Hello ZADAK community! Hi I'm Edwin Jr, S. De catalina from Panabo city, Philippines. I would like to share to you, my PROJECT Bumblebee!
Taipei, Taiwan (20th May, 2019) - ZADAK, a global high-end custom water-cooled PC brand, specially invited three world-class Modders to create scratch MODs for this year's Computex Taipei 2019. Inspired by his love of sci-fi, steam punk, anime, fairy tales and lore, Ron Lee Christianson from Washington, is showing his project of “The Time Traveler” designed a treasured time journal modification that is full of time exploration and surprise imagination. Mickee from Philippines has based on the legendary character weapon "Gibraltar" in the " APEX Legends " , a popular PC on-line game, using gold and silver colors and shield elements to present a more detailed sci-fi scratch machine. Also stimulated by the game of "APEX Legends", Taiwan’s famous modder AK is going to present the "Death Box Z" scratch MOD, which idea is coming from the constantly changing weapons “Death Box” in the game. It is combined with the ZADAK patented water distribution plate and touched power switch strip to create. The three masters' scratch MODs have their own characteristics and styles, which will ignite the discussed topics of the Computex. May 28th to June 1st, Computex Taipei 2019, ZADKA booth K0607a on the 1st floor of Nangang Exhibition Hall, please come and participate in the event! Ron Lee Christianson -- The Time Traveler” Mickee -- "Gibraltar" AK -- "Death Box Z" ZADAK Computex Taipei2019 Booth Information Date: May 28th - June 1st, 2019 Venue: Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, 1F, Booth K0607a
Taipei, Taiwan (8th May, 2019) - ZADAK, the world's high-end custom water-cooled PC brand, warmed up for the upcoming Computex Taipei 2019 and launched an online interactive ranking puzzle game. Let ZADAK fans warm up and prepare for ZADAK Computex. In the jigsaw puzzle, fans will be the first to see ZADAK's upcoming brand new water-cooled computer, Spark! The fans who complete the puzzle challenge in the shortest time will gain ZADAK's prepared appealing gifts, such as ZADAK SHIELD RGB memory, ZADAK M.2 RGB heat spreader, and ZADAK co-branded polo shirts, baseball caps, card badges, etc. ZADAK Computex 2019 online jigsaw puzzle activity starts from now until June 2nd. Please take the time to participate. Now, just click on the event URL below to enter the puzzle challenge immediately! At the same time, don't forget to visit ZADAK K0607a booth on the 1st floor of the Nangang Exhibition Hall from May 28th to June 1st to join ZADAK's wonderful event! ZADAK Computex 2019 Online Puzzle Game Activity URL: http://computexgame.zadak.biz/ ZADAK Computex Taipei2019 Booth Information Date: May 28th - June 1st, 2019 Venue: Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, 1F, Booth K0607a
Taipei, Taiwan (23th April, 2019) - ZADAK, a global high-end custom water-cooled PC brand, will be officially exhibiting for the first time at the Computex Taipei 2019 this year. ZADAK will showcase the highly acclaimed water-cooled PC designed with the exclusive craftsmanship of the three models, MOAB I, II, III. We will also present the new high-end water-cooling accessories and ultra-high-performance RGB gaming memory modules . In addition, in order to experience both aesthetics and performance of ZADAK liquid-cooling computer, ZADAK not only invites the world's top water-cooling modders to display the scratch MODs with ZADAK water-cooling products specially designed for this event, the ZADAK booth will also set up an ingenious esports experience area, make all professional water-cooled and e-sports players experience the ultimate performance and excellent visual feast of high-end water-cooled computers! Expecting to meet you all at ZADAK booth K0607a on the 1st floor of Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, Computex Taipei 2019, during May 28th to June 1st! ZADAK Computex Taipei2019 Booth Information Date: May 28th - June 1st, 2019 Venue: Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, 1F, Booth K0607a
SHIELD II WATER COOLED PC WALL-MOUNTED & DESKTOP COMPUTER The Thinnest Custom Water-Cooling PC CNC-Milled Aluminum Water Distribution Plate Specially-developed 360mm Radiator Capacitive Touch Strip Digital Display for Real-Time Water Temperature The Customized CPU Water Block Controllable RGB Lighting Device PATENTED WATER DISTRIBUTION PLATE The weakest spot of any water-cooled PC is the fittings and tubing. ZADAK took this into consideration; we built an entire water distribution plate which drastically lowered the amount of tubing and fittings needed. This virtually eliminates the possibilities of cracks. SPECIALLY-DEVELOPED 360MM RADIATOR In order to keep all that hardware happy and cool we added a custom 360mm radiator that was designed with SHIELD II in mind. It has excellent heat dissipation performance even while running the most demanding games and applications. CUSTOM CPU WATER-COOLED BLOCK The custom CPU water-cooled vlock is aimed to achieve the superior hardware performance. NTELLIGENT DESIGN, CAPACITIVE STRIP TO POWER ON/OFF The capacitive touch screen strip allows users to power on/ off the PC. All it takes is finger slide to the left to power on, and slide it again to power off. DIGITAL DISPLAY FOR REAL-TIME WATER TEMPERATURE A digital display shows real-time water temperature which allows the users to monitor the status of the PC. FULL RGB LIGHTING EFFECT No custom PC would be complete without RGB LEDs that can be used to fully customize the user experience. ZADAK wants to take this a step further by adding digital addressable RGB LEDs that can be used to create all kinds of new lighting effects. SPECIFICATION CPU Intel i7 9700K VGA GeForce RTX 2080Ti 11G MOTHERBOARD ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XI GENE MEMORY MODULE ZADAK SHIELD RGB DDR4 3000MHz 16GB(8GBx2) SSD Samsung PM970 Evo 500GB NVMe POWER SUPPLY Corsair RM650X Water Cooling ZADAK Custom Water Cooling System DIMENSION (W)51.3cm*(H)53.4cm*(D)10.8cm WALL-MOUNTED 200mm*200mm
Custom water-cooled systems have become really popular in recent years because of the optimal cooling solution that it offers, as well as the attraction that it adds to the overall appearance of a build. Maintenance of a water-cooled PC build is quite a challenge. And while dismantling a work of art that you spent blood and sweat on is not exactly enthusing, breaking things down into pieces before ultimately ending up with a beauty is an integral part of PC Modding. Ideally, you’d want to do a clean-up every 6 months to keep the liquid pristine and see to it that the thermal conductor on your CPU Block hasn’t completely dried up. If it’s impractical to do this on the other hand, keeping the system running for up to a year is A-Okay though the coolant might not appear as vibrant as it was on your first fill. In addition, observing the unit’s temperature can also help you decide on when to do maintenance. An increase by 10 degrees Celsius or more is basically your cue.
Introduction So you're interested in watercooling your computer but, you're teetering between an AIO (all in one) solution and a full blown custom loop. Knowing what's involved can help you be fully informed on which will best suit your needs. Custom watercooling has many advantages over the traditional way of using heatsinks and fans. It's more efficient, quieter and it looks undeniably awesome. There's information available on what's included in a custom watercooling loop but, not much in the way of details from the perspective of a Professional Case Modder. Everybody has their own way of doing custom watercooling loops and after doing it for years I've come across a lot of useful information. We'll take you on a journey into the ways we choose which paths to take and how to implement those decisions. There's nothing like having useful tips, tricks and give you inside look into making a custom hardline watercooling loop. Methods to the Madness The order that you connect hardware doesn't matter as far as performance goes. The golden rules I go by is, make sure your reservoir feeds directly your pump, place a drain port at the lowest part of the loop and plan to fill through the top of your reservoir. This leaves us with a lot of space for creativity. Hardline is quickly becoming the standard in custom watercooling loops. Hardline is tubing typically made from PETG or acrylic. While it can be more difficult to implement; the final product is beyond worth it. I've always been a believer that each computer system has its own style. You can change that style drastically depending how you place your watercooling tubing. Take this into consideration while planning your layout. Start out by putting stop fittings on all the ports that won't be used. Stop fittings are caps used to seal off ports that are unused. This will save you from a massive headache if you forget down the road. When determining a watercooling loop or path I use a pen, pencil, paper and sometimes a ruler. Starting out I'll draw the main components like the radiator, reservoir, CPU block etc in pen. This lets me to make changes to the tubing paths that are drawn in pencil without messing up my main components drawn. I prefer to play around with quite a few different arrangements or paths before implementing them. Now that I have a sketched out a guideline of the routes for my tubing I can look inside the case to make sure there's not any foreseeable issues with the path I've picked. Sometimes adjustments will need to be made as you go; it's all a part of the process Making the Connections Figuring out the length of tubing from hardware to hardware can be tricky at first. There are several methods that can be used to make it easier. When I first started I used thin metal wire that was easy to bend but, retained its shape. A pipe cleaner can also be substituted for thin wire. This gets you close to knowing the tubing needed and can also be used to determine the bends. You'll need to consider the tubing will go into each fitting about 10mm, which needs to be taken into account when determining the length. Always making sure to add a little extra both before and after the bend which allows you to fine tune it. Making Those Cuts and Bends Cutting hardline can be done using a rotatable pipe cutter, mini mitre and coping saw. There's a many ways you can cut hardline tubing. The mitre/coping saw allows for a straight, even cut that can be quicker than a rotatable pipe cutter. Bending hardline can be tricky at first. You'll also need a latex insert which goes inside the hardline and keeps the tubing from collapsing when making bends. A heat gun is used to warm up the tubing enough to make it bendable. The tubing is then rotated back and forth; making sure to evenly heat the tubing until it becomes soft. Using a slow, even pressure make your bend to the required angle. You can also buy mandrels which will make it easier to bend to specific angles however, mandrels are not required. Once you have your hardline tubing cut and bent it's time to chamfer the ends. Tools are sold which will allow you to easily chamfer the tubing. It'll make a taper at the end of the tube which gives it a better junction inside the fittings. Now that your loop is in order it's time to double check the fittings to make sure they're all screwed together tightly throughout the loop. This will help limit the chances of leaks in the next step; leak testing. To Leak or Not To Leak It's important to limit the chances of getting a leak but, we also want to prepare just in case it does happen. Disconnect all power cables except for the one that's needed to power the pump. That way if a leak does occur, it can be dried out without damaging components. Typically the power supply is activated through the motherboard. In order to get it powered up while disconnected, you'll need to jump the green wire with a ground wire. If you're uncomfortable jumping it this way, you can always buy a PSU jumper for a few bucks online. Paper towels are your best friend! Fold a few into a bundle and place them under each fitting connection. This serves two purposes; it catches any leaks before getting to your hardware and it makes it easier to spot small leaks. With the power supply off we need to fill up the reservoir. Usually I'll fill it up about ¾ of the way to the top; making sure to add coolant slowly to limit extra air bubbles. Take notice of the fitting junctions as you fill your loop. If you spot a small leak you can tighten the affected fitting or drain what you put in to make adjustments. Now that the reservoir is most the way full, it's time to turn your pump ON. You want to run it long enough for it to empty most of the reservoir without running the pump dry. Running the pump dry can cause it to heat up which could result in damage. Add more coolant and power the pump again to push it through the system. Repeat this step until coolant is coming into the inlet in the reservoir. By now your system will be full and it's a good time to thoroughly check the system to make sure that there is absolutely no leaks. After a good check, you can power up the pump and just let it run by itself. This allows air to work its way out of the system, as well as gives the loop plenty of time to confirm that there's no small leaks present. Most recommended letting the pump run like this for 24 hours before connecting all the PSU wires and firing up your machine for the first time. Closing We've taken you through some useful tips on building your own custom hardline watercooling loop. Soon you'll be the master of your own setup and air cooling will be a thing of the past. Doing your own custom loop can give you an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. At first it can seems scary but, all that fades away quickly. Youtube is your friend and they're a massive resource of “how to” watercooling videos. Make sure to buy extra tubing; especially your first time as mistakes will be made. There's one thing I can guarantee. If you do your own custom watercooling loop; you'll never look back. I've never felt more proud of accomplishing something then when I finished my first custom loop.
Taipei, Taiwan (26th May, 2019)-Computex Taipei 2019 is about to start! The world's high-end custom water-cooled PC brand ZADAK's latest water-cooled PC series SPARK will also debut. SPARK is the world's first custom-made modular with dual radiator for powerful heat dissipation and a high-quality gemstone cutting surface with a beautiful shape that stands out among the many water-cooled systems. In order to meet the requirements of DIY water-cooled players for performance and aesthetics, ZADAK also launched SPARK's AIO water-cooler of the same name, with a sophisticated and high-quality custom-made pump cover design, which combines aesthetics and performance with ARGB lighting effects. In addition, SPARK RGB DDR4 gaming memory, especially with dynamic multi-zone RGB lighting effect, presents a brighter, fancier and prettier RGB lighting effect, the jewel-shaped lighting effect in the middle is SPARK's ingenious design. May 28th to June 1st, Computex Taipei 2019, ZADKA booth K0607a on the 1st floor of Nangang Exhibition Hall, please come to the site to see the latest ZADAK product line! ZADAK Computex Taipei2019 Booth Information Date: May 28th - June 1st, 2019 Venue: Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, 1F, Booth K0607a
Breaking apart custom water cooled build. Custom water-cooled systems have become really popular in recent years because of the optimal cooling solution that it offers, as well as the attraction that it adds to the overall appearance of a build. Maintenance of a water-cooled PC build is quite a challenge. And while dismantling a work of art that you spent blood and sweat on is not exactly enthusing, breaking things down into pieces before ultimately ending up with a beauty is an integral part of PC Modding. Ideally, you’d want to do a clean-up every 6 months to keep the liquid pristine and see to it that the thermal conductor on your CPU Block hasn’t completely dried up. If it’s impractical to do this on the other hand, keeping the system running for up to a year is A-Okay though the coolant might not appear as vibrant as it was on your first fill. In addition, observing the unit’s temperature can also help you decide on when to do maintenance. An increase by 10 degrees Celsius or more is basically your cue. WHEN TO BREAK IT AND MAKE IT? 1.Component Upgrades Switching Processors, Graphics cards and sometimes RAM or SSD if they are part of the loop to improve PC performance or to revamp your entire system 2.When transitioning from one kind of tubing to another Moving from soft to rigid tubing, PETG to copper tubing, and others to match the aesthetics of a themed-build or to just try out something new 3.Adding additional water cooling components Installing an extra radiator, a water distribution plate, pump or tubes to match other upgraded components in the system Check these things out for a positive building experience: Time and Effort Due to the fact that it takes a lot of time to drain, swap out parts and test for leaks, even expert builders find installing new hardware in a water-cooled build a test of patience. You might want to pick a time of the week when you can give it your full attention like days heading towards the weekend. Back to the Drawing Board! Fitting angles and loop courses will most likely change, so you need to plan ahead. It’s not a must but using a software solution like Sketch Up is definitely a big help with getting everything inside your head organized into a visual of a possible outcome. But then again, a pen and paper never goes out of fashion. Gravity Falls Draining a water-cooled build can be tricky if not carefully planned. Strategically placing a drain port on the lowest section of the loop is a must-do. It ensures that we can easily empty the loop as needed in the future. Tissue, please… Prepare a bundle of tissue paper before draining water from the loop; it will come in handy when you need to wipe accidental spills and it can be used to catch coolant drips when testing. You can place them around the fittings, connectors, in areas between parts like the tubing and CPU water block, as well as on top of the Graphics card and so on as you see fit. Playing it safe Start things off by making sure that you’ve removed all the cables that supply power to your machine. This will give you freedom to move things in and out, so you can conveniently drain all the liquid out of the loop. No cables no problem as shown on the picture below. The Flush One thing that is constant when replacing any of the components of your water-cooled build is that you have to drain the coolant out before you can swap around parts. This is critical to avoid getting water where it’s not welcome. Trying Stuff Out Going from soft to rigid tubing requires changing all compression fittings, since the ones you used for the earlier will definitely not work with the latter and vice versa. Also, keep the different sizes of rigid tubes and fittings in mind. Say you’re using a 16mm rigid tube. You should pick out compression fittings matching its size. Same goes if you are to switch from a specific size of rigid tubing to another (e.g. 12mm to 14mm). Fill me up Johnny After successfully refilling the reservoir with enough coolant, do not connect the power supply to the motherboard and graphics card just yet. Plug the pump alone to the 4-pin Molex connector of the power supply, and then use a 24-pin adapter to perform a jump start allowing the pump to distribute the coolant around the water cooling system. The first time you switch the power supply on, you’ll notice that the liquid starts to circulate between the parts of the water cooling system leaving the reservoir empty. Once this happens, turn the power supply off to prevent the pump from getting damaged. You then have to fill the reservoir again to its maximum capacity, then repeat the process of turning it on and off until there’s enough water circulating in between parts. PSU Jumper connected to the 24 pin cable of the power supply. (Make sure that you power supply is not plugged in a wall socket or extension cord) If you don’t have the jumper thingy you can use a piece of wire, hair clip or even a stripped twist tie; insert one end to the slot of the green wire and the other end in the slot where there is a black wire, The black and green wire should be on the same row of pins. It is hard to miss the green wire as there is only one of it. In the case that all wires on you 24 pin are black then you can take a good look at the image below to determine where the green wire is, normally with the clip of the 24 pin faced up start counting at the top row it is the 4th slot from the left then the other end of your clip could go on the 6th. Bleeding Edge Air bubbles will be present in the tubes, water blocks, and reservoir the first time you fill and run the system. Stay calm as they will eventually disappear if you let the pump run for a few hours or sometimes a whole day. This process is often called “bleeding”. All of the above may seem daunting but getting well informed is the key to a positive experience. At the end of the day you just have to pick up all the tools and start doing it “experience is key” to every water cooling endeavor in the world of custom built computers.
The innovative MOAB M.2 RGB heat spreader which combines two types of aluminum finishes to provide fantastic heat dissipation. Compatible With the Majority of M.2 SSDs over the Specially-Designed Buckle An Incredible Heat Dissipation Through Unprecedented Combination of Two Types of Workmanship Marvelous RGB Lighting Sync with the Latest 5V Addressable RGB Technology The Most Fantastic Piece of Art
PROJECT MS-O6 SPECS EVGA H370 Stinger EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 GAMING EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GM EVGA CLC 120 Liquid MOAB RGB DDR4 AURA VERSION MOAB M.2 RGB HEAT SPREADER BITSPOWER WATERCOOLING